Friday, March 7, 2008

hang 10 brah!

Yep, you guessed it.  I went surfing today.  Woo-hoo!  So much for that vow to not go surfing until I was stronger.  Um, yeah, I shoulda waited, but I just can't say no to my friends.

It was good.  There was no current, which was great, but the waves weren't as strong, not so great.  I didn't get to stand up.  I did get up on my knees each time.  I had a smaller board, and it is so different from those great big long boards.  The long boards are so much more stable.  This board was prolly 10 ft. but narrow and felt more wobbly, even when I was laying on it.  I'm so not an athlete.  Anyway, I fell off my board quite a few times.  I just got plain tired of paddling, so I just hung on to the board and tried to swim it out.  Twice I did that and kicked coral (very shallow spot).  Both times my left foot.  I got bruised and cut up.  Chumming the water!  I was the first to go in and hang it up.

When I got home and stripped down to take a shower, my foob was noticably lower than my natural side.  Uh-oh!  I have an appointment in 2 weeks to see my plastic surgeon to discuss other things, so I'll have to confess my shenanigans to him.  I hope this is not a permanent thing.  But I can tell you one thing, I'm not going surfing again any time soon.  Not until I hear from the PS that it's okay.  I'm almost tempted to ask him for an MRI to see if I did any damage to the implant!  If I still had the saline, I'd know right away!

This is what the boys did after school today:

We went to some tidal pools at a nearby beach.  Jake is the lump in blue in the middle, looking like he's sad (I don't know why, he was having a blast) and Ryan is in green.  The rest are their little buddies from school.  Like peas in a pod.

I just wanted to share what we are doing in Paradise - while you are getting snowed in.  :-)  Yes, I'm very aware of how lucky we are and I'm enjoying every minute while we are here.  Because it's very possible that in the near future we could be as snowbound as everyone else.

The bread recipe will come soon!  I promise!

2 comments:

gosso23 said...

Your brave! Hope our didn't do any damage to your new boob! I bet you can't wait to go try again when you get the ok from your doctor. Looks like the kids had a great day at the tidal pools. I would love to do that.
You are in pardise trust me. I am looking out the window right now at a blanket of snow.
Trish

lanurseprn said...

Wow you're brave to go surfing! I hope everything is ok with you.
Love the picture...you really are in Paradise.
Pam